Least difficult 1200km brevet in the USA?

December 17, 2017 Posted by Lenore Koch

Tony Goodnight sometimes runs a really flat 1200k. But the wind can be a problem. Same with Last Chance, from what I’ve heard. You have a lot of time to finish a 1200, I don’t think people usually dnf because of the difficulty.

The Stampede in Texas is probably a good bet. They usually ride together. Always wanted to do that, but it’s early in the year.

Article source: https://www.bikeforums.net/long-distance-competition-ultracycling-randonneuring-endurance-cycling/1130803-least-difficult-1200km-brevet-usa.html

Drilling shoes for mid foot cleat : Sidi Dominator ? Any others?

December 17, 2017 Posted by Lenore Koch

I use a midfoot cleat position to prevent Achilles tendonitis for double centuries and longer rides. Looking for a higher quality shoe and will need to drill my own SPD cleat holes. Installation does require space under the sole for the metal plate or nuts such that they don’t protrude beyond existing padding, if that makes sense.

I previously asked this question on the forums and a popular answer was Sidi Dominator. Any other thoughts ? Thanks.

Article source: https://www.bikeforums.net/long-distance-competition-ultracycling-randonneuring-endurance-cycling/1130833-drilling-shoes-mid-foot-cleat-sidi-dominator-any-others.html

Possible solution for aero bars plus front bag setup: Wald 198 basket ?

December 17, 2017 Posted by Lenore Koch

Those who use aero bars but want a front bag they can access while riding… I haven’t found a non-custom/DIY solution.

What I’m thinking is using a Wald model 198 metal basket. It weighs 3lbs so that’s the only downside I see . Upside is that you can toss water bottles , clothing , snack bars, etc in it and reach down and grab stuff. You could use a zipped bag to prevent stuff from flying out, or any number of options.

Thoughts?

Article source: https://www.bikeforums.net/long-distance-competition-ultracycling-randonneuring-endurance-cycling/1130836-possible-solution-aero-bars-plus-front-bag-setup-wald-198-basket.html

Time to buy. Tire questions?

December 16, 2017 Posted by Lenore Koch

Thought I would direct this question first at the long distance crowd, as that’s the type of cycling I focus on.

I’ve been using 700 x 28 Armadillo Nimbus tires for the last few go arounds. LBS stocks these. Good puncture resistant tires. At least I have been happy with them in that department, as we are in goat head country. Get about 3500 miles before the flats kick in. Wondering if there is a better choice for me. Looking at Continental Grand Prix. Maybe less rolling resistance? Wondering how they compare puncture wise? Anybody have some experience along these lines? Any other recommendations?

Article source: https://www.bikeforums.net/long-distance-competition-ultracycling-randonneuring-endurance-cycling/1130742-time-buy-tire-questions.html

Winter HIIT spin training regime question

December 15, 2017 Posted by Lenore Koch

Spin bike training will be very similar to training on your own bike on a trainer or resistance rollers. I usually limit myself to 1 hour/session to prevent burnout. Some wisdom here:
https://www.trainingpeaks.com/blog/h…base-training/

Some recipes for particular workouts here: https://www.bikeforums.net/33-road-b…cipe-book.html
Though they mostly go by FTP, you can kinda get the idea of how hard to go. I’m a great believer in periodization for this kind of thing as mentioned by Rutberg.

VT1 is the breathing rate which is the upper limit of your being able to recite the alphabet in one breath. You’ll be breathing deeply, but just below the point at which rate will start to increase rapidly.

Every week I try to do one workout all season: CTS calls it FastPedal. Pedal zone 1 for 15 minutes, then pedal 115-120 (or as fast as you can without bouncing) at VT1 in a very low gear, so that you’re breathing deeply but not fast. Hold that for a continuous 15-45 minutes, then finish with a little more zone 1 to cool down. If you can’t pedal that fast in that zone, hold the zone and pedal as fast as you can.

For a non-interval steady-state hour, pedal in VT1 at about 90 cadence for an hour.

So say you did a FastPedal and 2 VT1 rides, that’s 3, so then add a couple interval rides of your choice. Having a little warm up and cool down and then periodizing, say:
Zone 3, 6-20 minutes at 100 cadence, 5 minutes very easy then another one or more of those to fill the hour.
Zone 3, 10-15 minutes at 50 cadence, 5 minutes easy, fill the hour.
Zone 4, 15 minutes at ~90, 15′ VT1, etc.
And then all the HIIT type of thing with all it’s permutations.
Though I usually don’t do just one thing for weeks at a time, I mix it up with the emphasis changing as the winter goes on.

Article source: https://www.bikeforums.net/long-distance-competition-ultracycling-randonneuring-endurance-cycling/1130712-winter-hiit-spin-training-regime-question.html

Gearing Questions II

December 13, 2017 Posted by Lenore Koch

I had another thread asking about gearing that got lengthy and this thread, while related, is a bit more specific.

So I’ve ended up with a 2017 Marin Four Corners. It has a 9 speed, 11/32 cassette and a 50/39/30 crankset on front. Having a ten speed 50/34 X 12/30 on my road bike, I can see for a touring bike, especially in mountainous areas, I haven’t gained a great deal in climbing gear. Yes, it is a lower gearing, but considering this bike may see more climbing, I would like to investigate lower climbing gears. The 50t front ring is also no real advantage in front. (All of which a number of you indicated on the last thread)
So, to add versatility I see two possible options but I’m no mechanic or gear guru.

Can I remove the 30t inner ring and replace it with a Shimano 24t inner ring? Since that isn’t a great jump, would it be reasonable to expect the rear derailleur to take up the slack? Here is a link to a chainring.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0…?ie=UTF8psc=1
Only thing, that is considered a 10 speed and not sure if that is compatible.

Otherwise, I’m not against replacing the whole crankset, but I see not much readily available that would meet the need, except in “mountain bike” specific. Not sure if that would matter. I did find this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PTMOTE…24Sth=1psc=1

It is 175mm x 48/36/26t 9 speed. I believe this is what I need, and I could just switch it out.

This seems a simple solution, though as stated, I’m not a mechanic and don’t know if there is anything that would make this NOT work. I realize the BB may need to be changed or may need to shorten the chain?

Article source: https://www.bikeforums.net/long-distance-competition-ultracycling-randonneuring-endurance-cycling/1130467-gearing-questions-ii.html

Brooks B17 regular vs aged vs ???

December 12, 2017 Posted by Lenore Koch

My Brooks b17 is about worn out – I’d like to break in another on the rollers before the Rando season here in Wisconsin – Considering a regular B17 but I like some of the reviews I’ve seen on the AGED B17. I also like the lace holes on the bottom of the AGED.

Has anyone use the aged?

Any comments on the lace holes and lacing? I’ve seen the holes but can’t recall anyone actually using them.

I also read RANDO RICHARD description of John Howard’s (I think) method of quick break-in of new B17 involving mink oil, soaking in hot water, etc. Has anyone tried that and what do you think about it?

Thanks

t

Article source: https://www.bikeforums.net/long-distance-competition-ultracycling-randonneuring-endurance-cycling/1130388-brooks-b17-regular-vs-aged-vs.html

Best trainer / indoor cycle for aspiring randonneur

December 9, 2017 Posted by Lenore Koch

I’ve been a lurker for about a year and have also gotten into longer distance riding in the past two years. I’ve yet to go beyond a 300k, but have big plans for 2018. With the weather turning cold and my arm in a sling from falling on a clavicle that I had cracked in half in August, I’m in the market for something I can ride indoors. New family obligations also put my time at a premium and a quieter machine will help me get stronger and keep me close to home.

So, my question is this:

As addicts of long rides, what trainers / indoor cycles do you guys use? If you won a modest sum of money in the lottery what would you look to buy for yourself for the upcoming holidays?

I’ve appreciated being able to read your insight over the previous 12 months and look forward to your thoughts here. For the record, I’m looking at going deep on a trainer that will ideally last me a long time; both the Wahoo Kickr 2017 and Tacx Neo have caught my eye, although they are pushing the limits of what’s financially feasible.

Thanks in advance!

Article source: https://www.bikeforums.net/long-distance-competition-ultracycling-randonneuring-endurance-cycling/1130233-best-trainer-indoor-cycle-aspiring-randonneur.html

Century Question

December 4, 2017 Posted by Lenore Koch

Is a Century’s finish line 100 miles from the starting line, or is it a loop, starting and ending at the same or nearby location?

In other words, if I ride 51 miles out, turn around and ride back, did I ride a century or just 102 miles without doing a century?

Article source: https://www.bikeforums.net/long-distance-competition-ultracycling-randonneuring-endurance-cycling/1129726-century-question.html

Tell me a story about a mechanical failure

December 4, 2017 Posted by Lenore Koch

I’ve had a similar problem!

My friend @TimmyT and I were riding a century out on Long Island. Maybe 40 miles out my bike got hard to pedal and then just stopped. Rear wheel wouldn’t turn. Even removing it from the frame was difficult. With the wheel off the bike, the axle wouldn’t turn. I adjusted the cones out a bit and it seemed okay.

We rode on.

But 25 miles later the same thing happened again. The cones had now damaged the axle threads pretty badly, and to fix that I took the axle all the way out. While I was messing with that, Tim looked at the wheel and figured out that the real problem was my free hub was loose. It was unscrewing itself as I rode.

Well that’s easy to fix if you have a 10 pm Allen wrench… but I didn’t.

The bike I was riding, however, had Weinmann 610 centerpull brakes, held on with 10 mm nuts. I took the whole brake bolt off the front brake, and took the nut off the rear brake. I locked the two nuts together on the brake bolt to give me an emergency 10 mm allen wrench, with which, with my crescent wrench, I was able to tighten the freehub.

After reassembling the hub, with no new grease and buggered axle threads (don’t even think about dirty balls), and reassembling the brakes, we rode on. Didn’t finish until after dark, but we finished.

Moral of that story? If you convert a 7 speed hub to 8 speed, make sure you tighten the new freehub pretty dang tight.

Article source: https://www.bikeforums.net/long-distance-competition-ultracycling-randonneuring-endurance-cycling/1129748-tell-me-story-about-mechanical-failure.html